(417) 520-7110
Service Tips
If you want to better understand how your comfort system works, and learn more about your system, take some time to review this page.
You may help prevent future service calls, maximize the life or your equipment and enjoy cleaner, healthier air.
Dazzle your AC Tech with your knowledge! ~ Enjoy.
Q&A
QUESTION: My heat pump outdoor unit is smoking and looks like it is on fire!
ANSWER: If you are not from a Heat Pump area, you may be unfamiliar with the winter operational defrost process with Heat Pumps. Generally, every 60 or 90 minutes the heat pump goes into a reverse cycle defrost process; should its controls say that it is necessary. This defrost generally happens more in colder weather. When the cold outside air is pulled through the rapidly heated outdoor unit coil, this moisture is released into the cold air creating an intense fog that can appear to be smoke, so relax and know that this is normal.
QUESTION: My AC has stopped working. Is there anything I can do before calling for Service?
ANSWER #1: Here are a few things to check. First, check your filter. If it is clogged, the system may have frozen due to lack of airfow. Check for signs of ice. Ice can also form due to low levels of refrigerant due to a refrigerant leak. If ice has been detected, call Service for further instructions. You will be able to save some money be speeding up the thawing process. We will help you out with some further questions, and initiate some instructions.
ANSWER #2: There are usually drain safety switches installed in the condensate trap of heat pumps. Turn off the electricity at the unit disconnect, and find the switch (drain safety may not be installed). Open the switch to expose the drain and see if there is standing water. If so, a wet dry vac can suck out the crud causing the clog. This is usually common upon starting the AC for the first time of the year with unmaintained systems. You may also have a condensate pump. You may try to gently shake the pump to free up a possible stuck float switch. Rememeber to call for service to have the pump cleaned should there be an issue with this.
ANSWER #3: If your thermostat operates on batteries alone and not by the system 24V power, you may want to keep an eye on the status of your thermostats batteries. This can be an easily overlooked problem.
ANSWER #4: If the system is not working and no cold air is coming out of your system, turn your system off, and call our Service Department.
ANSWER #5: In home performance test - Turn your system down to allow the unit to run for awhile. Wait at least 10 minutes before making this test. If you have a old fashion thermometer, or better yet a digital thermometer, get out your ladder and find the most convenient supply air register and insert the probe into the vent, and wait several minutes. Record that temperature. Then record the temperature of the air going into the return grill. There should be a 15-20 degree temperature difference difference between the two. If this is temperature is less or more, you need to have your system serviced.
QUESTION: There is a musty smell coming from my AC unit. Do I have mold in my system?
ANSWER #1: When systems are not performing as designed, the unit's ability to remove humidity can diminish significantly. This can be a gradual process and you will find yourself turning down the thermostat lower and lower to feel more comfortable. We call this the "damp cave" effect. Having an improper amount of refrigerant and, or having too high fan speed across the indoor evaporator coil will contribute to this problem. Oversizing of the AC can also be a factor as the home will cool down too fast and not have enough running time to extract the humidity. When a home's AC is properly sized and the system is working properly, most people feel comfortable at around 78 degrees.
As far as biological growth goes, the above conditions are generally the cause of the musty smell; along with poor filtration. There are several very common growths that cause the musty smell. Typically, a thorough cleaning is in order of your air handling system. We can also then sanitize your system and duct using Chlorine Dioxide, which is a very safe and very effective sanitizer. Once the home starts dehydrating, biological growth dies out and your musty smell will go away in time. Take a look at our Indoor Air Quality page and investigate having a PCO system or a bi-polar ionizer installed. Your ductwork will need to be inspected to determine if any further action will be necessary.
QUESTION: My gas furnace has stopped working. Is there anything I can check before calling service?
ANSWER #1: Make sure your thermostat is not flashing low battery. Check for fuel. Do other gas appliances work? If your are using propane, you may have run out of fuel. Also check your filter. If it is clogged, replace your filter and reset your power switch.
QUESTION: I have cold and hot spots in my home. Is there anything that can be done?
ANSWER #1: A ductwork inspection is in order. Duct design and airflow problem solving is one of our specialties. Please contact us for and evaluation.
Pictured to the left is a typical drain safety switch. The black cap can be removed to view for standing water. Remember to shut off power before disturbing the switch.
Pictured to the right is a typical condensate pump. The pump may dry up during heating season and create problems with contamination. This is cleaned twice a year with our maintenance program.
Understanding Your System and Repair Choices
Condensing Units
The outdoor section is called the condensing unit.
(You may also have a package unit system that has
all items in a self-contained unit)
This unit contains the compressor, sometimes referred to as the heart of your unit because it moves/pumps the refrigerant gas inside the system. This unit also contains the condensing coil and a fan that removed the heat from your home into the outdoors. This unit may either be a straight AC or a Heat Pump.
Working Components of the typical Condensing Unit
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Compressor
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Run Capacitor
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Start Capacitor (Not on all systems)
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Potential Relay (Not on all systems)
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Condenser Fan Motor
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Run Capacitor
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Contactor
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Control Board
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Reversing Valve ~ (Heat Pumps Only)
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Reversing Valve Solenoid! (Heat Pumps Only)
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High & Low Pressure Switches ~ (Not on all systems)
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Thermister or Temperature Sensor ~ (Not on all systems)
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Mechanical Relay ~ (Not on all systems)
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Compressor - To repair or replace with a new system depends on several factors. First of all check your warranty. Most compressors have either a 5-year or a 10-year warranty. If this is the case, a failure after the first year cost you only the labor and certain refrigerant handling fees. This still may result in costs in the $700 to $900 range, unless there is a burn-out failure.
Scroll Compressor
Hermetic Reciprocating Compressor
What to do when these parts fails:
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A properly installed compressor replacement is an involved process.
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The refrigerant must be tested for acid. If your compressor is out of warranty and there has been a "burn-out" of your compressor that has caused major contamination, it is recommended to consider a new system. If a compressor is to be replaced after a burn out, you should be assured of a full flush of the condenser coil, evaporator coil and line set using industry recognized flush chemical. The installation of a liquid line and a suction line filter drier will also need to be installed, and within 30 days, the suction line drier removed and the liquid line drier replaced. New refrigerant gas will be needed for the burn out primary repair. Drier replacement recovery and replacement of the same refrigerant is acceptable.
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A compressor failure is usually due to improper voltage to the motor winding's. The usual suspect for this is the contactor. With a compressor failure, the contactor replacement is a must. The recommended components to replace with your compressor are:
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System Contactor
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Run Capacitor and the Start capacitor/potential relay kit (not on all systems)
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Any damaged wiring harness making connection to the compressor.
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Run Capacitor- Capacitors can fail at anytime however they are more prone to failure during periods of high temperature. Over the last decade there has been a tendency to utilize foreign imported capacitors which tend to have a high failure rate. It is recommended to use a domestic made capacitor at the least, and we feel it is worth paying the extra money for these Heavy Duty Capacitors made here in these United States. The Heavy Duty capacitors come with a 5- year warranty from 360 Comfort Solutions. These are dated and coded upon installation.
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Start Capacitor - This device is not installed on all systems but is recommended to be installed within the start system for most compressors. This device works in conjunction with a potential relay and is usually installed as a packaged kit by the condensing unit manufacturer. The start capacitor/potential relay start assist allows for smooth starts and lessens the inrush current while starting the compressor. This set up may extend the life of your compressor. It is recommended to replace these items if they fail vs abandoning this type of start set up.
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Condenser Fan Motor - When a fan motor stops working, we first assure that a capacitor failure, or an overheated motor is not the real culprit. An internal thermal overload switch can also mimic a motor failure. Should we determine a genuine failure, the type of motor you have, will be replaced with the exact type. Most condenser fan motors are Permanent Start Capacitor (PSC) motors and will come in many different quality ranges. The two major factors are the bearings. One type is "Sleeve" bearing and the other "Ball" Bearings. If you want price to be the factor, get the sleeve bearing.
One very important factor in replacing a condenser fan motor is the fan blade. This blade can get easily damaged if its removal is difficult. If the hub is damaged, a new blade must be installed, we will quote you pricing options should this occur. If the balance of the blade is affected by the removal process, the technician may be able to balance the blade in an appropriate manner. Any wobble can damage the bearing on that brand new motor. If the wobble is unacceptable, the blade will need to be replaced.
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Motors should be replaced by using the following rules:
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Specialty motors should be replaced using factory replacement parts.
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There are two common RPM motors utilized in condensing units. The exact RPM must be utilized for the replacement.
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Horsepower must not be the primary consideration for replacement. Amp draw must be utilized, so a 1.0 amp motor at 240V must be replaced with another 1.0 amp 240V motor.
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If the motor is old and the shaft is rusty, plan on replacing the fan blade. The pitch and number of blades must be identical. A special order is sometimes necessary to get the correct blade.
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Contactor - Failure to replace a worn contactor is the #1 cause of compressor failure. Regular twice a year maintenance allows the contactor to be inspected, and to be proactive with replacement as the points start to wear. Insects, especially ants can get into the points and create a current restricting insulation layer of dead ants. Many other factors such as loose wires can cause the points to pit and burn. When the pits and burns diminish the flow of electricity to the compressor, that is when problems occur.
When replacing a contactor, we recommend opting for a higher amp rating if available, as the higher the rating, the more durable to contactor will be.
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Defrost Control - The control circuit board, or the sensor that tells the board whether or not to run a defrost, may be the cause of a heat pump freezing up and forming a continued ice accumulation on the outdoor coil. The other suspect is a bad fan motor, a bad capacitor, or low refrigerant. The sensor can be tested for proper operation and most circuit boards have a self-test feature to allow technicians a quick diagnosis.
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Reversing Valve & Valve Solenoid - Reversing valves can fail in several ways. Make sure you evaluate the age of the equipment vs. the cost of the repair.
Valves can also have the solenoid fail. This is a simple and inexpensive repair and involves the replacement of a 24V plug and play component.
Should the valve become stuck in one position or experience a mixing leak as a resulting mixture of cold refrigerant vapor and hot gas, a simple magnet exercise of the valve may be able to free up the valve. If no result of remedy of exercising the valve resolves the issue, a valve replacement will be in order. This is an expensive repair. Again make sure you evaluate the age of the equipment vs. the repair.
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High & Low Pressure Switches - These devices are typically attached via a 1/4" threaded fitting into the copper refrigerant lines, however some are not replaceable without brazing the copper. These devices are life savers and serve to protect your equipment from high pressures caused by such situations as a condenser fan failure or low pressure caused by a refrigerant leak. It is typical of some technicians to bypass these devices if they fail. A removal and replacement of the refrigerant within the system is necessary to replace these devices. This is a decision best made upon a consultation with your technician. Remember that you give up the protections if you fail to replace any faulty protection device.
Some high pressure switches are not automatic and have a reset switch built in. Resetting the switch closes the circuit for proper operation once the cause of the failure has been resolved.
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Thermisters & Sensors - Heat Pumps and some high efficiency AC's utilize temperature sensors to monitor coil temperatures for defrost, low ambient operation evaporator temperatures and outdoor temperatures for many different applications. These sensors can be tested by forced temperature if they are mechanically operated, or by Ohm testing if they are a thermister. These repairs are not expensive but may result in operational delays by having to order the proper device.
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Mechanical Relay - Once the standard go to control device, these relays are being use less and being replaced by printed circuit controls. These devices are simple and low cost should your remedy involves one of these devices.
Understanding Your System and Repair Choices
Air Handlers for Heat Pumps & Straight AC's
The indoor section is typically an Air Handler for Split
System Heat Pumps.
(You may also have a package unit system that have
all items in a self-contained unit)
This part of your system contains the evaporator coil section of your refrigerant system, a blower and a heat package for primary or supplemental heat. This unit is where the excess heat, humidity and contaminant extraction takes place. It is very important to have all of these attributes working in peak performance at all times.
Working Components of the typical Air Handler
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Blower Fan Motor
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Run Capacitor
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Control Circuit Board
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Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV) or a Piston metering device
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Electric Heater Package - Acting as primary or supplemental heat
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Heater sequencer
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What to do when these parts fails:
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Blower Motor - When you have a blower fan motor fail, we will first assure that a capacitor failure or an overheated motor is not the real culprit. An internal thermal overload switch can mimic a motor failure. Once we have determined a genuine failure, we will determine the specifications of the motor to determine the proper replacement.
There are currently three main types of blower motors, a Permanent Start Capacitor (PSC) motor, an Electrically Communtated Motor (ECM) or sometimes known as a Variable Speed Motor, and an X-13 Motor which is a hybrid between a PSC and an ECM motor, offering constant torque.
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PSC Motor: This is the least expensive motor available, and is common on older standard Air Handlers. Some AC companies may offer a PSC motor to replace a more expensive X-13 or ECM motor. While this action is entirely possible and will "work", a rewiring of your system, and the abandonment of your circuit board blower functions may require relays to also be added. This ends up being a mess; and meanwhile, you lose the enhancements that the original motor offers. Another factor that comes into play is the airflow characteristics change, and may significantly affect the unit ability to remove humidity. We recommend only replacing like for like when it comes to blower motors.
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ECM Motor: This is an expensive motor, however they tend to last much longer than the PSC motors. One saving grace is the ability to replace the control module of the motor on some models. This module replacement must be made only if the winding's of the main motor body are not damaged, and the failure is contained within the module. We will let you know if this module replacement may be an option.
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Notes: All blower motor replacements will include the removal and cleaning of the squirrel cage blower wheel, sanitizing of the air handler and proper fan speed selection for maximum dehumidification.
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Run Capacitor: If you have a PSC motor, it will have a run capacitor that may be the only source of a blower failure unless Mr. Murphy is standing by. This capacitor is an inexpensive part and you should be up and running in no time.
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Circuit Board Controller: All circuit boards are protected by a fuse, keeping failures to a minimum. It is actually quite surprising that circuitry so small can be so durable. Like any electronic item, failure can occur. If you have a condemned circuit board, the technician will check your warranty, and will only replace this device with a factory replacement.
Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV): Although this device is a part of the refrigerant system which is covered below, it is a functional part. There are two types of TXV's. One is mechanical and one is electronic. We will first cover the mechanical TXV. This device meters refrigerant into the evaporator coil based on a sensing bulb's temperature of the exiting refrigerant leaving the coil as a vapor. The bulb has a refrigerant charge, and it increases and decreases pressure on an internal diaphragm within the body of the valve as the gas expands and contracts with temperature. Sometimes, these valves are overheated during installation and damage the diaphragm. The bulb circuit can leak out gas and also cause failure. Another problem is internal contamination damaging the valve within the refrigerant system.
The electronic TXV utilizes a stepper motor to modulate the flow of refrigerant based on a thermister temperature probe that feeds information to a control board. These electronic valves have proven quite reliable, however there are failures.
Should you have a TXV failure with an mechanical valve, the refrigerant charge will need to be recovered and the replacement made. This can be an moderately expensive repair.
Electronic valves involving the control module or the stepper motor do not require opening the refrigerant system and can be fairly simple repairs as far as labor. The parts vary in costs. In the long run, these are usually less expensive to repair than the mechanical type.
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Electric Heater: - Electric heat can be your primary source of heat, albeit and expensive source, and can also be utilized as supplemental heat when using a Heat Pump. These heaters are fairly simple and have simple controls. Depending on the source of the problem, individual parts may be replaced or the entire heat package replaced. Your technician will recommend the best option for the situation at hand. These packages are measured in kilowatts and usually come in 5, 7.5, 10 and up to 15 kilowatts.
With supplemental heat, you may not realize that you have a problem until the really cold weather arrives. This function is tested annually with your maintenance plan. Your Heat Pump goes into defrost quite often during the really cold weather. During defrost, the system literally turns on the air conditioner to melt the frost off of the outdoor unit. The supplemental heater comes on to temper this cold air coming through your ducts. If this air seems a bit too cold, you may have a problem with your supplemental heater. The supplemental heater also comes on when the heat pump can not keep up with the dropping temperatures, or when you suddenly raise the thermostat more than 2 degrees. This supplement helps warm the house up quickly. It is advisable to not turn down the temperature more than several degrees when leaving the house for the day, as this can actually cost you more to get the house back up to the desired temperature.
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Sequencers contained in the heat package may be replaced upon failure for minimum costs. These are the usual source of failure.
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Understanding Your System and Repair Choices
Gas Furnaces
Gas Furnaces can work as your primary source of heat or can be utilized in a Dual Fuel arrangement, with a Heat Pump being the primary source.
(You may also have a package unit system that have
all items in a self-contained unit)
Your gas furnace contains the blower, heat exchanger(s), a circuit board, the igniter, a gas valve, the burner, venting and safety controls. The newer and higher efficiency furnaces come as either non-condensing or condesning types. These both have induced draft fans to assist in combustion, and the condensing furnaces have added components such as pressure switches. We will cover some basic components that may be required to repair and discuss safety.
Working Components of the typical Gas Furnace
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Blower Fan Motor
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Run Capacitor
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Control Circuit Board
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Safety Controls and Sensors
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Igniter
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Gas Piping & Connections Components
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Gas Valve
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Burners
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Venting
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Induced Draft Fan
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Pressure Switches
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Primary Heat Exchanger
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Secondary Heat Exchanger
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Condensate
Safety, Safety, Safety: - If you have a gas furnace, you must have Carbon Monoxide Detectors at least on each floor of the home and in larger homes, more than one per floor.
We also highly recommend gas fuel detectors which will detect raw gas leaks should you have an appliance valve failure or happen to leave the gas valve on the stove on.
While we are on the topic of detectors, make sure you have smoke detectors in every bedroom and in two locations in the main living area and don't forget the garage!
Propane & Natural Gas Leaks - Propane gas is heavier than air and can collect in low lying areas. In these concentrations, sparks could ignite the leaked fuel, so gas detectors in low lying areas is advised. You may notice by your propane tank, you may smell gas on occasion. This may be due to the natural venting via the high and low pressure regulators within the piping system. Please be aware of your piping locations underground and under the home. Make annual inspections. Remember during any emergency, directly exit the home, and turn your gas off at the tank or at the main low pressure valve outside the home by the large regulator. If you feel it necessary, call the Fire Department immediately. Make it a point to know where these shut off valves are located. If in doubt, have one of our technicians show you during our maintenance visit.
With natural gas (methane) the gas is lighter than air, and is considered safer due to the natural dispersion tendencies of lighter than air fuel. You will want to install a gas detector in the kitchen and one in the furnace area more toward the ceiling. Know where your main incoming gas shut off valve is located. This should be a valve with a handle and be easily and quickly turned off.
We encourage you and your family to watch fire safety videos and gas leak videos. Discuss procedures should your home catch fire, or if you smell gas, or have a detector go off. Remember, gas has an odorant added to it that distinctly catches ones attention. If a detector is sounding and alarm, you will notice a gas odor if this is a true alarm condition.
Historically, gas appliances have proven to be very safe, however common sense safeguards and knowledge is not something to ignore!
What to do when these parts fails:
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Furnace Blower Motor - When you have a blower fan motor stop working, we will first assure that a capacitor failure or an overheated motor is not the real culprit. An internal thermal overload switch can mimic a motor failure. Once we have determined a genuine failure, we will gather specifications on your motor to determine the proper replacement.
There are currently three main types of blower motors, a Permanent Start Capacitor (PSC) motor, an Electrically Communtated Motor (ECM) or sometimes known as a Variable Speed Motor, and an X-13 Motor which is a hybrid between a PSC and an ECM motor.
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PSC Motor: This is the least expensive motor available, and is common on older standard Air Handlers. Some AC companies may offer a PSC motor to replace a more expensive X-13 or ECM motor. While this action is entirely possible and will "work", a rewiring of your system, and the abandonment of your circuit board blower functions will require relays to also be added. This ends up being a mess; and meanwhile, you lose the enhancements that the original motor offers. Another factor that comes into play is the airflow characteristics change, and may significantly affect the unit ability to remove humidity. We recommend only replacing like for like when it comes to blower motors.
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ECM Motor: This is an expensive motor, however they tend to last much longer than the PSC motors. One saving grace is the ability to replace the control module of the motor on some models. This module replacement must be made only if the windings of the main motor body are not damaged and the failure is contained within the module. We will inform you should this module replacement be an option.
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X-13 Motor: This is the workhorse motor of today's blowers.We always replace these with the exact same motor. Fan speed is critical with these motors!
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Notes: All furnace blower motor replacements will include the removal and cleaning of the squirrel cage blower wheel, sanitizing of the blower area, and proper fan speed selection for maximum dehumidification, and proper temperature rise to keep the furnace from getting too hot with too low fan speeds.
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Run Capacitor: If you have a PSC motor, it will have a run capacitor that may be the only source of a blower failure unless Mr. Murphy is standing by. This capacitor is an inexpensive part and you should be up and running in no time.
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Circuit Board Controller: All circuit boards are protected by a fuse, keeping failures to a minimum. It is actually quite surprising that circuitry so small can be so durable. Like any electronic item, failure can occur. If you have a condemned circuit board, the technician will check your warranty, and will only replace this device with a factory replacement, unless the part is unavailable.
The circuit board for your furnace controls everything with the furnace operation with the exception of your thermostat settings. This involves safety controls, warm up, cool down, igniter switching, draft induction fan operation and so on.
A sequence of operation will be performed as part of the troubleshooting of any furnace problems to determine any functioning part failures. Should your circuit board be condemned as failed, we prefer to replace your board with a factory exact replacement. Should a factory part or a non factory replacement be utilized, a thorough testing of all sequences will be performed to assure proper operation.
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Safety Controls:
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Door Switch - Stops operation if the furnace door is not fastened properly
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Flame Roll Out Switch - Detects flame outside burner area
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High Limit Switch - Detects overheating
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Vent Air Switch - Verifies draft induction fan operation
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Flame Sensor - Verifies pilot operation
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Your circuit board verifies all safety measure are within limits. A fault code remembers any fault and notifies the technician of the historical fault codes. Once the fault is determine, the source or cause of the fault must be remedied. This can involve just about everything you can think of, from bats in the vent pipe (actually happens) to component failure. Your technician will make the necessary authorized repair and verify all operational and safety functions.
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Ignitor - These devices vary in the manner and the material used. For years, the basic igniter was the constant on pilot light. In the late 70's and 80's the spark ignition ruled the market. The spark igniter simply lit the pilot to help save fuel. Electronic igniter now uses hot surface igniters. When there is a call for heat from the thermostat, the fork stem heats up until it is red hot. The gas valve then opens, and the gas is ignited by the glowing igniter. The flame is verified by the same component. Hot surface igniters burn out over time and must be replaced. It is part of our maintenance to replace these igniters every two years for reliability.
One problem that can occur is if the igniter fails to stop glowing after the furnace is lit. This may be a problem with the circuit board. The igniter operation can be viewed through a glass peep hole.
Observing the ignition of the furnace is an important part of our service and inspections. Much can be evaluated on how the system starts, from observing the flame and the igniter.
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Gas Piping & Connection Components - Most codes do not allow for flexible connectors to enter the furnace and make direct connection to the gas valve. We use only black steel gas pipe for these connections. Just outside the furnace a sediment trap should be installed and be 6" deep. This catches debris and should be installed in a manner to direct the gas and any debris down before continuing past the trap. A shut off valve and a union must be installed in this trap area just outside the gas line opening of the furnace.
These are basic rules and sometimes we find the connections are not up to code. If this is the case for your furnace, we will make a note of this and offer a repair quote to remedy.
A part of our maintenance includes gas pressure testing. Start pressure, operational pressure and static pressure test will be documented and evaluated to determine if there might by any pressure issues.
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Gas Valve - Your gas valve takes in line pressure gas and steps it down to the furnace operational pressure and the valve is the switch that allows the gas to flow when the thermostat calls for heat. The gas can be a single stage valve, a two stage valve, a multi-step valve or a full modulating valve. These non single stage valves allow the furnace to become variable heat output furnaces that substantially increase the comfort of your home. Any deviation from anything other than a factory replacement valve in not acceptable.
Valve failure will require the valve to be replaced using and exact replacement. If the furnace utilizes propane, a propane conversion kit will also need to be installed.
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Furnace Burners - The burners are the area of combustion. As the gas flows through fixed orifices and have ignited, a clean burning flame is created via a highly controlled environment. Combustion air, orifice size, gas pressure and vent pressure all play a role with a clean burning combustion. A combustion analyzer allows the technician to make certain adjustments to achieve the most optimal burn rate as possible. This also achieves a very low CO level in the vented gases.
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Venting - Furnaces are vented using either atmospheric non-condensing code approved metal venting, draft induced non-condensing, code approved metal venting, or condensing furnace venting using PVC. The type of draft varies from negative pressure to positive pressure. Each type has certain design features to provide proper environments to assist with proper combustion. Poor design, vent clogging due to bats, birds, rodents, etc., and other factors may lead to a service and performance issue. We utilize cameras, spot checks and other means to assure your systems venting is allowing for proper operation.
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Induced Draft Fan - Higher efficiency furnaces have designs that do not allow for atmospheric venting of flue gases. With the design of these higher efficiency furnaces, a draft assist fan is installed. This device is called the Induced Draft Fan and is a fan and motor assembly specifically designed for each model of furnace. These Induced Draft Fans go through a lot of punishment. You may find yourself with a failed Induced Draft Fan in the future. These failures are usually gradual and can be preemptively dealt with. If your technician suggest this replacement, it would be advisable to initiate the repair before it fails.
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Pressure Switch - These pressure switches must prove the Induced Draft Fan is working before turning the furnace on. These switches can fail and they can get moisture trapped inside the switch. This problem can happen for several reasons and it takes a trained technician to remedy. Water may not ruin these switches but repeated moisture problems will result in eventual failure.
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If you are having repeated moisture issues with these switches, call our Service Department for a permanent remedy!
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Primary & Secondary Heat Exchangers - 80% efficient furnaces have only a primary heat exchanger. The 90%+ furnaces contain a primary and a secondary heat exchanger as this higher efficient furnace is so efficient, it condenses moisture from the air.
Heat Exchangers separate the combustion flue gases from the indoor air we breathe. Should a breech occur in one of the heat exchangers, Carbon Monoxide will start to concentrate in the indoor envelope of the home. Overheating of heat exchangers will weaken the seams and the danger of a breech becomes a possibility. Poor duct systems with a high temperature rise may over time weaken these seams. Our Service Technicians will test for the presence of Carbon Monoxide in the air stream and visually inspect the inside of your heat exchanger(s) for any breeches.
Heat Exchangers can fail, so having a CO Detector is a good idea. Manufactures generally have 20 year warranties on heat exchangers, but range from 10-years to Lifetime Warranties. If your heat exchanger is leaking, it is a good idea to analyze the condition of your furnace as a whole, when determining whether to repair or replace the furnace.
Condensing furnaces mix moisture and flue gasses. For a long life, it is vital to have these 90%+ furnaces burning as clean as possible. If there are combustion issues, the heat exchangers can get gummed up and cause severe service issues. These problems may not get covered under the manufactures warranty. Properly setting up propane conversion kits, setting gas pressures, analyzing combustion with professional meters are all key for longevity for your furnace.
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Condensing Furnace Condensate Issues - Condensing furnaces create very acidic condensate. A condensate neutralizing kit should have been installed with your new system. This in-line filter is generally filled with limestone and should be replaced when the pH gets down to 6.0. A general rule of thumb is to change this filter annually. Failure to do this sends extremely acidic water into the sewer system and can damage pipes and wildlife alike.
Condensate traps in the system need to be maintained before each heating season to assure condensate does not back up into your system and pressure switches. A good maintenance program is key.
Understanding Your System and Repair Choices
Refrigerant System Repairs
Refrigerant System Repair Items
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Refrigerant System Repair Guidelines
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Compressor
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Condenser Coil
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Evaporator Coil
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Thermal Expansion Valve & Pistons
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Filter Driers
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Reversing Valve
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Accumulator
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Service Valves
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Brazed Pressure Switches
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Refrigerant line set repair
Refrigerant System Repair Guidelines-
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An acid test will need to determine if the system is contaminated. If so, special procedures will need to be initiated.
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High acid, caused by moisture in the refrigerant, may be present with no apparent burn out contamination, however, if a burn out of the compressor windings has contaminated the refrigerant system and the system is older, a repair such as a compressor replacement, becomes more expensive and the reliability of the repair diminishes.
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The refrigerant within the system must be recovered under EPA guidelines and protocols. Clean recovered refrigerant may be put back into the system after the repair has been made. There will always be the need to add some new refrigerant due to pressure issues with the transfer.
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Nitrogen must be circulated in the system to assist in removing residual refrigerant left in the oil. This protects the technician from the possibility of burning refrigerant during brazing, causing the formation of highly toxic Fosgene Gas.
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If brazing is used with an open refrigerant system, nitrogen must be flowed through the system to prevent oxidation contamination. This oxidation can clog TXV screens, created reversing valve issues and other problems.
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Great care should be utilized by the technician to protect the torch flame from damaging surrounding items and surfaces. The use of heat paste to diminish heat migration and the use of wet rags must be utilized to protect the items being brazed into place. Heat can damage new components!
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A new liquid line filter drier must be installed once a refrigerant system has need exposed to the atmoshpere.
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Once a repair has been performed. Its should be standard procedure to pressurize the refrigerant system to approximately 500 psi and leak test the repaired area with a bubble test. This nitrogen introduction also assists in speeding up the next procedure of evacuation.
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Once the repair has proven leak free, a vacuum pump will pull the refrigerant system into a vacuum. This deep vacuum is measured using a micron gauge. This gauge will inform the technician the state of the vacuum, if there might be a leak elsewhere in the system and when the state of the vacuum is acceptable to reintroduce the refrigerant.
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Compressor - Also see Condensing Unit Repairs in the material above. There are many considerations when faced with the Repair or Replace dilemma. Make sure to get a quote on the full repair and get a quote on a new system to make sure you have all of the data you need to make the right decision for you and your budget.
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Condenser and Evaporator Coils- The condenser coil can get leaks due to damage, stress, or manufacturing issues. There is generally a decent warranty on condenser and evaporator coils. Remember that a leak in the evaporator coil is leaking chemical refrigerant into the indoor air stream. Never operate or recharge a leaky evaporator coil.
If the coil is under warranty, get a price on the labor and fees to install the coil. If the system is out of warranty, you may want to consider a new system. Your technician will work with you to get you the pricing you need.
If your outdoor coil has been damaged by hail, call your insurance company to see if your policy covers the repair costs.
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Thermal Expansion Valves & Pistons - A TXV may need to be replaced or a fixed piston metering device may become clogged and need to have the system opened. These repairs are usually moderate in cost and should be considered a viable repair if the age of the equipment is under 12 years.
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Filter Driers - Liquid Line Filter Driers should be replaced every time a refrigerant system is opened for any repairs.
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Reversing Valve Replacement - Also see Reversing Valve Repairs in the material above. This can be a difficult repair. It is highly advisable to consider replacement if the unit is over 8 years old.
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Accumulators - Accumulators are a storage vessel with baffles to assist in the refrigerant flow process of a heat pump. These item rarely need replacement but can rust and cause leaks. This is a simple refrigerant system repair.
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Service Valves - Brass service valves can leak, and are sometimes damaged during installation by overheating. Leaking valves may be able to be sealed enough to stop the leaking with a firm tightening of the valve cap. Should this not solve the leak, a replacement should be scheduled.
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Pressure Switches - Some pressure switches are brazed into place and replacement involves opening the refrigerant system and brazing into place new switches. As discussed in the Condensing Unit Repair section above, some switches are screwed in and some are brazed. In either case, the refrigerant system will need to be opened to perform the repair.
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Copper Line Set Repairs - Occasionally copper line sets will get damaged and need to be repaired. Kinks can sometimes be reformed using certain techniques. Any restrictions in the refrigerant line set need to be repaired immediately!