Serving Taney & Stone County
(417) 520-7110
Outdoor Condensing Units
The outdoor section is called the condensing unit.
(You may also have a package unit system that has all items in a self-contained unit)
This unit contains the compressor, sometimes referred to as the heart of your unit because it moves/pumps the refrigerant gas inside the system. This unit also contains the condensing coil and a fan that removed the heat from your home into the outdoors. This unit may either be a straight AC or a Heat Pump.
Working Components of the typical Condensing Unit
Click on each component for more information
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Start Capacitor (Not on all systems)
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Potential Relay (Not on all systems)
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Reversing Valve ~ (Heat Pumps Only)
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Reversing Valve Solenoid! (Heat Pumps Only)
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High & Low Pressure Switches ~ (Not on all systems)
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Thermister or Temperature Sensor ~ (Not on all systems)
What to do when these parts fails:
If your Compressor fails:
To replace a compress, or to decide to replace your system depends on several factors. First, check your warranty. Most compressors have either a 5-year, or a 10-year limited warranty. After the first year, this limited warranty usually allows for the compressor part to be provided to you at no charge. The labor and other parts & services needed will be your responsibility.
Scroll Compressor
Reciprocating Compressor
A properly installed compressor replacement is an involved process.
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The refrigerant must be tested for acid. If your compressor is out of warranty and there has been a "burn-out" of your compressor that has caused major contamination, it is recommended to consider a new system. If a compressor is to be replaced after a burn out, you should be assured of a full flush of the condenser coil, evaporator coil and line set using industry recognized flush chemical. The installation of a liquid line and a suction line filter drier will also need to be installed, and within 30 days, the suction line drier removed and the liquid line drier replaced. New refrigerant gas will be needed for the burn out primary repair. Drier replacement recovery and replacement of the same refrigerant is acceptable.
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A compressor failure is usually due to improper voltage to the motor winding's. The usual suspect for this is the contactor. With a compressor failure, the contactor replacement is a must. The recommended components to replace with your compressor are:
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System Contactor
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Run Capacitor and the Start capacitor/potential relay kit (not on all systems)
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Any damaged wiring harness making connection to the compressor.
If your Run Capacitor fails:
Run Capacitor- Capacitors can fail at anytime however they are more prone to failure during periods of high temperature. Over the last decade there has been a tendency to utilize foreign imported capacitors which tend to have a high failure rate. It is recommended to use a domestic made capacitors, and we feel it is worth paying the extra money for Heavy Duty Capacitors made here in these United States. The Heavy Duty capacitors come with a 5- year warranty from 360 Comfort Solutions. These are dated and coded upon installation. This is usually an fairly inexpensive repair, however it is not something you want happening often, so we strongly recommend the extra cost for a Heavy Duty Run Capacitor.
There are many different size combinations. Each rating must match your compressor or you fan motor. Most run capacitors are now what we call DUAL capacitors and contain both the compressor and the fan motor capacitor in one device.
Start Capacitor - This device is not installed on all systems, but is recommended to be installed within the start system for most compressors. This device works in conjunction with a potential relay and is usually installed as a packaged kit by the condensing unit manufacturer. The start capacitor/potential relay start assist allows for smooth starts and lessens the inrush current while starting the compressor. This set up may extend the life of your compressor. It is recommended to replace these items if they fail vs abandoning this type of start set up.
If your outdoor unit Fan Motor fails:
Condenser Fan Motor - When a fan motor stops working, we first assure that a capacitor failure, an power supply issue with an overheated motor, is not the real culprit. An internal thermal overload switch can also mimic a motor failure. Should we determine a genuine failure, the type of motor you have, will be replaced with the exact type. Most condenser fan motors are Permanent Start Capacitor (PSC) motors and will come in many different quality ranges. The two major factors are the bearings. One type is "Sleeve" bearing and the other "Ball" Bearings. If you want price to be the factor, get the sleeve bearing. An original factory motor replacement is always the best path forward, however they can be pricey.
One very important factor in replacing a condenser fan motor is the fan blade. This blade can get easily damaged, if its removal is difficult. If the hub is damaged, a new blade must be installed, we will quote you pricing options should this occur. If the balance of the blade is affected by the removal process, the technician may be able to balance the blade in an appropriate manner. Any wobble can damage the bearing on that brand new motor. If there is any wobble, the blade will need to be replaced.
Motors should be replaced by using the following rules:
Specialty motors should be replaced using factory replacement parts.
There are two common RPM motors utilized in condensing units. The exact RPM must be utilized for the replacement.
Horsepower must not be the primary consideration for replacement. Amp draw must be utilized, so a 1.0 amp motor at 240V must be replaced with another 1.0 amp 240V motor.
If the motor is old and the shaft is rusty, plan on replacing the fan blade. The pitch and number of blades must be identical. A special order is sometimes necessary to get the correct blade.
If your Contactor fails:
Contactor - Failure to replace a worn contactor is the #1 cause of compressor failure. Regular twice a year maintenance allows the contactor to be inspected, and to be proactive with replacement as the points start to wear. Insects, especially ants can get into the points and create a current restricting insulation layer of dead ants. Many other factors such as loose wires can cause the points to pit and burn. When the pits and burns diminish the flow of electricity to the compressor, that is when problems occur. When replacing a contactor, we recommend opting for a higher amp rating if available, as the higher the rating, the more durable to contactor will be.
If your Circuit Board fails:
There are several types of circuit boards for standard household outdoor units. Regular Air Conditioners sometimes have a time delay board built in. Heat Pumps always have a defrost control board. This circuit board controls your outdoor fan motor, sensors, safety switches and sensors. This board regulates the defrost function in the heating mode. Failure of this board is not a common occurrence, and is usually misdiagnosed due to other complex failures. If a failure occurs on your time delay on your A/C, this can be taken out of the circuit and bypassed, as long as your thermostat has a built in time delay. A failure of your Heat Pump defrost control board should be replaced with a factory replacement. Please note that all temperature sensors should be replaced at the same time to assure a reliable operation for the life of your system.
If your Reversing Valve fails:
Reversing Valve & Valve Solenoid - Reversing valves can fail in several ways. Make sure you evaluate the age of the equipment vs. the cost of the repair. Valves can also have the solenoid fail. This is a simple and inexpensive repair and involves the replacement of a 24V plug and play component.
Should the valve become stuck in one position or experience a mixing leak as a resulting mixture of cold refrigerant vapor and hot gas, a simple magnet exercise of the valve may be able to free up the valve. If no result of remedy of exercising the valve resolves the issue, a valve replacement will be in order. This is an expensive repair. Again make sure you evaluate the warranty status and the age of the equipment vs. the repair cost.
If your Pressure Switch fails:
High & Low Pressure Switches - These devices are typically attached via a 1/4" threaded fitting into the copper refrigerant lines, however some are not replaceable without brazing the copper. These devices are life savers and serve to protect your equipment from high pressures caused by such situations as a condenser fan failure or low pressure caused by a refrigerant leak. It is typical of some technicians to bypass these devices if they fail. A removal and replacement of the refrigerant within the system is necessary to replace these devices if they are brazed in place. This is a decision best made upon a consultation with your technician. Remember that you give up the protections if you fail to replace any faulty protection device. Some older high pressure switches are not automatic, and have a reset switch built in. Resetting the switch closes the circuit for proper operation once the cause of the failure has been resolved.
If your Temperature Sensor/Thermister fails:
Thermisters & Sensors - Heat Pumps and some high efficiency AC's utilize temperature sensors to monitor coil temperatures for defrost, low ambient operation evaporator temperatures and outdoor temperatures for many different applications. These sensors can be tested by forced temperature if they are mechanically operated, or by Ohm testing if they are a thermister. These repairs are not expensive but may result in wintertime operational delays by having to order the proper device.
If your Condenser Coil fails:
Condenser Coil - The outdoor unit's Condenser Coil is a part of your systems refrigerant circuit. Should you develop a leak within this coil, it will probably need to be replaced. A repair can be made on few occasions, depending upon the leaks location. Pinhole leaks are primarily due to overcharging of the refrigerant system, or due to high pressure incidents. Factory failures can occur, and usually show up under the warranty time-frame. If your unit is within the first year warranty, this should cost you nothing to repair. This coil can fall under the 5 year or 10 year warranty for the part. If this is the case, you will be responsible for the labor and other costs associated with its replacement. You will want to weigh the condition and age of your equipment to decide to repair, or replace your system.
If your Filter Drier fails:
Filter Drier - These devices are simply a desiccant drier, design to trap moisture that may get into your refrigerant system during maintenance. Moisture is the #1 enemy of your refrigerant circuit.
A Filter Drier replacement is always performed when your refrigerant circuit is opened for a repair. A failure can be due to a rusted & leaking drier, or an overload of moisture into the refrigerant system due a failure to replace the drier after a catastrophic refrigerant leak where the refrigerant circuit has been left open to the atmposhere.
If your Thermal Expansion Valve fails, or a fixed orifice gets clogged:
Thermal Expansion Valve - Heat Pumps either have a fixed orifice, or an automatic Expansion Valve to spray the liquid refrigerant into the outdoor coil during wintertime operation. A fixed orifice can get clogged from debris and can cause variations in the refrigerant circuit. This can range from minor disturbances to complete operational failure. This is generally a minor operation, however it does require opening up the refrigerant circuit past the units valves, and having to replace the filter drier.
A failure of the Thermal Expansion Valve requires a complete recovery of the refrigerant within your system. Once this is accomplished, a replacement can be performed. The refrigerant system can now be evacuated using a vacuum pump, a series of nitrogen purges and a final vacuum. Your old refrigerant can now be reintroduced back into the system and topped off with new refrigerant to proper levels. As you can tell, this is an involved and expensive operation. First consider the warranty that might be available, and then look at the cost of the repair in relation to the age of your equipment to make the best decision for your situation.
Air Handlers - Understanding your System & Repair Options
Air Handlers are the blower section of a split system that contain the refrigerant systems evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is where the heat transfer takes place. During the heat transfer, the refrigerant expands and gets very cold, thereby allowing for humidity control. This humidity is piped outside of the Air Handler via PVC condensate piping.
An electric heater is usually a part of the Air Handler and can act as the primary source of heat or as a supplemental source when utilized with a Heat Pump.
The components and Repair Options are reviewed below. Please click the desired component you need to look at, or scroll down to review them all.
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Heater sequencer
Working Components of the typical Air Handler
Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV) or a Piston metering device
Electric Heater Package - Acting as primary or supplemental heat
If your Blower Motor fails:
Blower Motor - When you have a blower fan motor fail, we will first assure that a capacitor failure, a module failure, or an overheated motor is not the real culprit. An internal thermal overload switch can mimic a motor failure due to a failed capacitor. Once we have determined a genuine failure, we will determine the specifications of the motor, to determine the proper replacement.
There are currently three main types of blower motors, a Permanent Start Capacitor (PSC) motor, an Electrically Communtated Motor (ECM) or sometimes known as a Variable Speed Motor, and an X-13 Motor which is a hybrid between a PSC and an ECM motor, offering constant torque.
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PSC Motor: This is the least expensive motor available, and is common on older standard Air Handlers. Some AC companies may offer a PSC motor to replace a more expensive X-13 or ECM motor. While this action is entirely possible and will "work", a rewiring of your system, and the abandonment of your circuit board blower functions may require relays to also be added. This ends up being a mess; and meanwhile, you lose the enhancements that the original motor offers. Another factor that comes into play is the airflow characteristics change, and may significantly affect the unit ability to remove humidity. We recommend only replacing like for like when it comes to blower motors.
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ECM Motor: This is an expensive motor, however they tend to last much longer than the PSC motors. One saving grace is the ability to replace the control module of the motor on some models. This module replacement must be made only if the winding's of the main motor body are not damaged, and the failure is contained within the module. We will let you know if this module replacement may be an option.
Notes: All blower motor replacements will include the removal and cleaning of the squirrel cage blower wheel, sanitizing of the air handler and proper fan speed selection for maximum dehumidification.
If your Run Capacitor fails:
Run Capacitor - If you have a PSC motor, it will have a run capacitor that may be the only source of a blower failure unless Mr. Murphy is standing by. This capacitor is an inexpensive part and you should be up and running in no time.
If your Circuit Board fails:
Circuit Board Controller - The circuit board for Air Handlers can be a complicated controller, and have many complex functions. Diagnosis of the more complex circuit boards is accomplished with on-bard diagnostic codes using a self-analysis feature. All circuit boards are protected by a fuse, keeping failures to a minimum. It is actually quite surprising that circuitry so small can be so durable. Like any electronic items, failure can occur. If you have a condemned circuit board, the technician will check your warranty, and will only replace this device with a factory replacement.
If your Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV) fails:
Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV): Although this device is a part of the refrigerant system which is covered below, it is a functional part. There are two types of TXV's. One is mechanical and one is electronic. We will first cover the mechanical TXV. This device meters refrigerant into the evaporator coil based on a sensing bulb's temperature of the exiting refrigerant leaving the coil as a vapor. The bulb has a refrigerant charge, and it increases and decreases pressure on an internal diaphragm within the body of the valve as the gas expands and contracts with temperature. Sometimes, these valves are overheated during installation and damage the diaphragm. The bulb circuit can leak out gas and also cause failure. Another problem is internal contamination damaging the valve within the refrigerant system.
The electronic TXV utilizes a stepper motor to modulate the flow of refrigerant based on a thermister temperature probe that feeds information to a control board. These electronic valves have proven quite reliable, however there are failures.
Should you have a TXV failure with an mechanical valve, the refrigerant charge will need to be recovered and the replacement made. This can be an moderately expensive repair.
Electronic valves involving the control module or the stepper motor do not require opening the refrigerant system and can be fairly simple repairs as far as labor. The parts vary in costs. In the long run, these are usually less expensive to repair than the mechanical type.
If your Electric Heat Package fails:
Electric Heater - Electric heat can be your primary source of heat, albeit and expensive source, and can also be utilized as supplemental heat when using a Heat Pump. These heaters are fairly simple and have simple controls. Depending on the source of the problem, individual parts may be replaced or the entire heat package replaced. Your technician will recommend the best option for the situation at hand. These packages are measured in kilowatts and usually come in 5, 7.5, 10, 15 and up to 20 kilowatts.
With supplemental heat, you may not realize that you have a problem until the really cold weather arrives. This function is tested annually with your maintenance plan. Your Heat Pump goes into defrost quite often during the really cold weather. During defrost, the heat pump system literally turns on the air conditioner to melt the frost off of the outdoor unit. The supplemental heater comes on to temper this cold air coming through your ducts. If this air seems a bit too cold, you may have a problem with your supplemental heater. The supplemental heater also comes on when the heat pump can not keep up with the dropping temperatures, or when you suddenly raise the thermostat more than 2 degrees. This supplement helps warm the house up quickly. It is advisable to not turn down the temperature more than several degrees when leaving the house for the day, as this can actually cost you more to get the house back up to the desired temperature.
Sequencers contained in the heat package may be replaced upon failure for minimum costs. These are the usual source of failure.
If your Evaporator Coil fails:
Your evaporator coil is part of the closed refrigerant system. It is composed of either all aluminum body including the tubes and fins, or it will be copper tubes with aluminum fins. The coil removes heat from the air or in the heat mode, adds heat. As the liquid refrigerant is sprayed into the coil feeder tubes, heat is picked up from air flowing across the fins. Upon heating, the liquid expands into a vapor. During this change of state from a liquid to a vapor, the coil gets very cold, thereby allowing for humidity removal. All conditions must be in the factory specifications parameter for all the magic to work properly.
It is very important to keep this coil very clean with proper air filtration. If this coil gets dirty, it must be cleaned. Cleaning the evaporator coil usually required removing the refrigerant and cutting the copper to remove the coil. This procedure can be costly, so keep that filter changed, and never operate the system without a filter. You will forget to get it done. It happens all of the time.
If your coil is dirty enough to warrant a coil cleaning, you may want to consider a replacement, depending on the age of the system.
Should the coil develop a leak, it must be replaced with a factory replacement. Again, this is the time to investigate your warranty & consider the age of your equipment as to repair or replace.
Gas Furnaces - Understanding your System & Repair Options
Gas Furnaces - Natural Gas or Propane Furnaces can work as your primary source of heat, or can be utilized in a Dual Fuel arrangement, with a Heat Pump being the primary source, and the gas furnace being the 2nd stage for colder weather operation.
(You may also have a package unit system that have all items in a self-contained unit)
Your gas furnace contains the blower, heat exchanger(s), a circuit board, the igniter, a gas valve, the burner, venting and safety controls. The newer and higher efficiency furnaces come as either non-condensing or condesning types. These both have induced draft fans to assist in combustion, and the condensing furnaces have added components such as pressure switches and a condensing coil. We will cover some basic components that may be required to repair, and discuss general safety.
Safety, Safety, Safety - If you have a gas furnace, you must have Carbon Monoxide Detectors at least on each floor of the home and in larger homes, more than one per floor. Don't forget the garage. If your furnace is in the crawl space, investigate detectors designed to withstand high moisture environments.
We also highly recommend gas fuel detectors which will detect raw gas leaks should you have an appliance valve failure or happen to leave the gas valve on the stove on. Dual CO/Fuel detectors are also readily available. Using the dual detectors should be priority.
While we are on the topic of detectors, make sure you have smoke detectors in every bedroom and in two locations in the main living area and don't forget the garage!
Propane & Natural Gas Leaks - Propane gas is heavier than air and can collect in low lying areas. In these concentrations, sparks could ignite the leaked fuel, so gas detectors in low lying areas is advised. You may notice by your propane tank, you may smell gas on occasion. This may be due to the natural venting via the high and low pressure regulators within the piping system. Please be aware of your piping locations underground and under the home. Make annual inspections. Remember during any leak emergency, directly exit the home, and turn your gas off at the tank or at the main low pressure cut off valve outside the home by the large regulator. Call the Fire Department immediately! Make it a point to know where these shut off valves are located. If in doubt, have one of our technicians show you during our maintenance visit.
With natural gas (methane) the gas is lighter than air, and is considered safer due to the natural dispersion tendencies of lighter than air fuel. You will want to install a gas detector in the kitchen and one in the furnace area more toward the ceiling. Know where your main incoming gas shut off valve is located. This should be a valve with a handle and be easily and quickly turned off.
We encourage you and your family to watch fire safety videos and gas leak videos. Discuss procedures should your home catch fire, or if you smell gas, or have a detector go off. Remember, gas has an odorant added to it that distinctly catches ones attention. If a detector is sounding and alarm, you will notice a gas odor if this is a true alarm condition.
Historically, gas appliances have proven to be very safe, however common sense safeguards and knowledge is not something to ignore!
Working Components of Gas Furnaces
Click on each component for more information
Gas Piping & Connections Components
If your Blower Motor fails:
Furnace Blower Motor - When you have a blower fan motor stop working, we will first assure that a capacitor failure or an overheated motor is not the real culprit. An internal thermal overload switch can mimic a motor failure. Once we have determined a genuine failure, we will gather specifications on your motor to determine the proper replacement.
There are currently three main types of blower motors, a Permanent Start Capacitor (PSC) motor, an Electrically Communtated Motor (ECM) or sometimes known as a Variable Speed Motor, and an X-13 Motor which is a hybrid between a PSC and an ECM motor. The exact factory OEM blower motor should replace any failed motor on high efficiency furnaces. A like for like replacement is a must for all blower motors. Assure you are getting the proper replacement.
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PSC Motor: This is the least expensive motor available, and is common on older standard Air Handlers. Some AC companies may offer a PSC motor to replace a more expensive X-13 or ECM motor. While this action is entirely possible and will "work", a rewiring of your system, and the abandonment of your circuit board blower functions will require relays to also be added. This ends up being a mess; and meanwhile, you lose the enhancements that the original motor offers. Another factor that comes into play is the airflow characteristics change, and may significantly affect the unit ability to remove humidity. We recommend only replacing like for like when it comes to blower motors.
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ECM Motor: This is an expensive motor, however they tend to last much longer than the PSC motors. One saving grace is the ability to replace the control module of the motor on some models. This module replacement must be made only if the windings of the main motor body are not damaged and the failure is contained within the module. We will inform you should this module replacement be an option.
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X-13 Motor: This is the workhorse motor of today's blowers.We always replace these with the exact same motor. Fan speed is critical with these motors!
Notes: All furnace blower motor replacements will include the removal and cleaning of the squirrel cage blower wheel, sanitizing of the blower area, and proper fan speed selection for maximum dehumidification, and testing the proper temperature rise to keep the furnace from getting too hot with too low fan speeds.
If your Run Capacitor fails:
Run Capacitor - If you have a PSC motor, it will have a run capacitor that may be the only source of a blower failure unless Mr. Murphy is standing by. This capacitor is an inexpensive part and you should be up and running in no time.
If your Circuit Board fails:
Circuit Board Controller - All circuit boards are protected by a fuse, keeping failures to a minimum. It is actually quite surprising that circuitry so small can be so durable. Like any electronic item, failure can occur. If you have a condemned circuit board, the technician will check your warranty, and will only replace this device with a factory replacement, unless the part is unavailable.The circuit board for your furnace controls everything with the furnace operation with the exception of your thermostat settings. This involves safety controls, warm up, cool down, igniter switching, draft induction fan operation and so on. A sequence of operation will be performed as part of the troubleshooting of any furnace problems to determine any functioning part failures. Should your circuit board be condemned as failed, we prefer to replace your board with a factory exact replacement.
If your Safety Controls or other Sensors fail:
Safety Controls:
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Door Switch - Stops operation if the furnace door is not fastened properly
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Flame Roll Out Switch - Detects flame outside burner area
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High Limit Switch - Detects overheating
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Vent Air Switch - Verifies draft induction fan operation
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Flame Sensor - Verifies pilot operation
Your circuit board verifies all safety measure are within limits. A fault code remembers any fault and notifies the technician of the historical fault codes. Once the fault is determine, the source or cause of the fault must be remedied. This can involve just about everything you can think of, from bats in the vent pipe (actually happens) to component failure. Your technician will make the necessary authorized repair and verify all operational and safety functions.
If your Ignitor fails:
Ignitor - These devices vary in the manner and the material used. For years, the basic igniter was the "constant on" pilot light. In the late 70's and 80's the spark ignition ruled the market. The spark igniter simply lit the pilot to help save fuel. Electronic igniter now uses hot surface igniters. When there is a call for heat from the thermostat, the fork stem heats up until it is red hot. The gas valve then opens, and the gas is ignited by the glowing igniter. The flame is verified by the same component. Hot surface igniters burn out over time and must be replaced. It is part of our maintenance to replace these igniters every two years for reliability.One problem that can occur is if the igniter fails to stop glowing after the furnace is lit. This may be a problem with the circuit board. The igniter operation can be viewed through a glass peep hole. Observing the ignition of the furnace is an important part of our service and inspections. Much can be evaluated on how the system starts, from observing the flame and the igniter.
If your Gas Piping, Regulator or piping components fails:
Gas Piping, Regulator & Connection Components - Most codes do not allow for flexible connectors to enter the furnace and make direct connection to the gas valve. We use only black steel gas pipe for these connections. Just outside the furnace a sediment trap should be installed and be 6" deep. This catches debris and should be installed in a manner to direct the gas, and any debris down before continuing past the trap. A shut off valve and a union must be installed in this trap area just outside the gas line opening of the furnace. These are basic rules and sometimes we find the connections are not up to code. If this is the case for your furnace, we will make a note of this and offer a repair quote to remedy. A part of our maintenance includes gas pressure testing. Start pressure, operational pressure and static pressure test will be documented and evaluated to determine if there might by any pressure issues.
If you have a Propane Furnace, your gas piping system will have a 1st Stage Regulator, and a 2nd Stage Regulator. These regulators must be protected from their vent getting debris inside and from freezing. These regulators should be tested on a regular basis to assure the pressure of your gas supply stays constant during operation, and during operation of multiple appliances.
360 Comfort Solutions is a Missouri State Licensed Propane Contractor and will perform proper testing during our maintenance or servicing of your system.
Sediment Trap - Assure your gas piping trap located at your appliance is installed in the manner as described in the picture to your left. This is very important to keep debris from entering your gas valve!
TO APPLIANCE
If your Main Gas Valve fails:
Gas Valve - Your gas valve takes in line pressure gas and steps it down to the furnace operational pressure and the valve is the switch that allows the gas to flow when the thermostat calls for heat. The gas can be a single stage valve, a two stage valve, a multi-step valve or a full modulating valve. These non single stage valves allow the furnace to become variable heat output furnaces that substantially increase the comfort of your home. Any deviation from anything other than a factory replacement valve in not acceptable.
Valve failure will require the valve to be replaced using and exact replacement. If the furnace utilizes propane, a propane conversion kit will also need to be installed.
If your Burners are not adjusted properly:
Furnace Burners - The burners are where the combustion takes place. As the gas flows through fixed orifices and have ignited, a clean burning flame is created via a highly controlled environment. Combustion air, orifice size, gas pressure and vent pressure all play a role with a clean burning combustion. A combustion analyzer allows the technician to make certain adjustments to achieve the most optimal burn rate as possible. This also achieves a very low CO level in the vented gases.
If you are having Venting Issues:
Venting - Furnaces are vented using either atmospheric non-condensing code approved metal venting, draft induced non-condensing, code approved metal venting, or condensing furnace venting using PVC. The type of draft varies from negative pressure to positive pressure. Each type has certain design features to provide proper environments to assist with proper combustion. Poor design, vent clogging due to bats, birds, rodents, etc., and other factors may lead to a service and performance issue. We utilize cameras, spot checks and other means to assure your systems venting is allowing for proper operation. If you see any potential issues with your venting, shut the furnace down, and call us immediately.
If you Draft Induction Fan fails:
Induced Draft Fan - Higher efficiency furnaces have designs that do not allow for atmospheric venting of flue gases. With the design of these higher efficiency furnaces, a draft assist fan is installed. This device is called the Induced Draft Fan and is a fan and motor assembly specifically designed for each model of furnace. These Induced Draft Fans go through a lot of punishment. You may find yourself with a failed Induced Draft Fan in the future. These failures are usually gradual and can be preemptively dealt with. If your technician suggest this replacement, it would be advisable to initiate the repair before it fails.
If your Pressure Switch fails:
Pressure Switch - These pressure switches must prove the Induced Draft Fan is working before turning the furnace on. These switches can fail and they can get moisture trapped inside the switch. This problem can happen for several reasons and it takes a trained technician to remedy. Water may not ruin these switches but repeated moisture problems will result in eventual failure.
If you are having repeated moisture issues with these switches, call our Service Department for a permanent remedy!
If your Heat Exchanger fails:
Primary & Secondary Heat Exchangers - 80% efficient furnaces have only a primary heat exchanger. The 90%+ furnaces contain a primary and a secondary heat exchanger. This is why the higher efficient furnace are so efficient. The combustion is so complete, it condenses moisture from the air.
Heat Exchangers separate the combustion flue gases from the indoor air we breathe. Should a breech occur in one of the heat exchangers, Flue gases will start to concentrate in the indoor envelope of the home.
Overheating of heat exchangers will weaken the seams, and the danger of a breech becomes a possibility. Poor duct systems with a high temperature rise may over time weaken these seams. Our Service Technicians will test for the presence of Carbon Monoxide in the air stream and visually inspect the inside of your heat exchanger(s) for any breeches. Heat Exchangers can fail, so having a CO Detector is a must.
Manufactures generally have 20 year warranties on heat exchangers, but range from 10-years to Lifetime Warranties. If your heat exchanger is leaking, it is a good idea to analyze the condition of your furnace as a whole, when determining whether to repair or replace the furnace.
Condensing furnaces mix moisture and flue gasses. For a long life, it is vital to have these 90%+ furnaces burning as clean as possible. If there are combustion issues, the heat exchangers can get gummed up and cause severe service issues. These problems may not get covered under the manufactures warranty. Properly setting up propane conversion kits, setting gas pressures, analyzing combustion with professional meters are all key for longevity for your furnace.
With a heat exchanger failure, If your furnace is out of warranty, it is probably time for a new furnace.
If your Condensate Acid Filter has expired:
Condensing Furnace Condensate Issues - 90%+ Condensing furnaces create very acidic condensate. A condensate neutralizing kit should have been installed with your new system. This in-line filter is generally filled with limestone and should be replaced when the pH gets down to 6.0. A general rule of thumb is to change this filter annually. Failure to do this sends extremely acidic water into the sewer system and can damage pipes and wildlife alike.Condensate traps in the system need to be maintained before each heating season to assure condensate does not back up into your system and pressure switches. A good maintenance program is key.
Refrigerant System - Understanding your System & Repair Options
Refrigerant System Repair Items
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Refrigerant System Repair Guidelines
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Compressor
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Condenser Coil
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Evaporator Coil
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Thermal Expansion Valve & Fixed Orifices
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Filter Driers
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Reversing Valve
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Accumulator
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Service Valves
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Brazed Pressure Switches
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Refrigerant line set repair
Refrigerant System Repair Guidelines
Opening up a sealed refrigerant system to make a repair will involve either pumping the refrigerant back into the outdoor unit using the compressor, or removing all of the refrigerant using a recovery machine. If the repair is outside the outdoor unit, a pump down method is utilized. If the repair is within the outdoor unit, a full refrigerant recovery will be needed.
Some guidelines we use are as follows:
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An acid test will need to determine if the system is contaminated. If so, special procedures will need to be initiated.
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High acid, caused by moisture in the refrigerant, may be present with no apparent burn out contamination, however, if a burn out of the compressor winding's has contaminated the refrigerant system and the system is older, a repair such as a compressor replacement, becomes more expensive and the reliability of the repair diminishes.
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The refrigerant within the system must be recovered under EPA guidelines and protocols. Clean recovered refrigerant may be put back into the system after the repair has been made. There will always be the need to add some new refrigerant due to pressure issues with the transfer.
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Nitrogen must be circulated in the system to assist in removing residual refrigerant left in the oil. This protects the technician from the possibility of burning refrigerant during brazing, causing the formation of highly toxic Fosgene Gas.
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If brazing is used with an open refrigerant system, nitrogen must be flowed through the system to prevent oxidation contamination. This oxidation can clog TXV screens, created reversing valve issues and other problems.
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Great care should be utilized by the technician to protect the torch flame from damaging surrounding items and surfaces. The use of heat paste to diminish heat migration and the use of wet rags or heat paste, must be utilized to protect the items being brazed into place. Heat can damage new components!
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A new liquid line filter drier must be installed once a refrigerant system has need exposed to the atmosphere.
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Once a repair has been performed, the standard procedure is to pressurize the refrigerant system to approximately 400-475 psi, and leak test the repaired area with a bubble test. This nitrogen introduction also assists in speeding up the next procedure of evacuation.
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Once the repair has proven leak free, a vacuum pump will pull the refrigerant system into a vacuum. This deep vacuum is measured using a micron gauge. This gauge will inform the technician the state of the vacuum, if there might be a leak elsewhere in the system and when the state of the vacuum is acceptable to reintroduce the refrigerant. A triple evacuation is a standard procedure for us, involving (3) nitrogen pressurization's in between vacuums, with the final vacuum reaching a stabilized 500 microns or less.
Compressor - Also see Condensing Unit Repairs in the material above. There are many considerations when faced with the Repair or Replace dilemma. Make sure to get a quote on the full repair and get a quote on a new system to make sure you have all of the data you need to make the right decision for you and your budget.
Condenser and Evaporator Coils- The condenser coil can get leaks due to damage, stress, or manufacturing issues. There is generally a decent warranty on condenser and evaporator coils. Remember that a leak in the evaporator coil is leaking chemical refrigerant into the indoor air stream. Never operate or recharge a leaky evaporator coil.
If the coil is under warranty, get a price on the labor and fees to install the coil. If the system is out of warranty, you may want to consider a new system. Your technician will work with you to get you the pricing you need.
If your outdoor coil has been damaged by hail, call your insurance company to see if your policy covers the repair costs.
Thermal Expansion Valves & Pistons - A TXV may need to be replaced or a fixed piston metering device may become clogged and need to have the system opened. These repairs are usually moderate in cost and should be considered a viable repair if the age of the equipment is under 12 years.
Filter Driers - Liquid Line Filter Driers should be replaced every time a refrigerant system is opened for any repairs. These filter driers should be installed on the outside, as to keep refrigerant flashing from occurring. These driers are made of steel, and if overheated during installation, they can rust prematurely, causing refrigerant to slowly leak out of your system.
Reversing Valve Replacement - Also see Reversing Valve Repairs in the material above. This can be a difficult repair. It is highly advisable to consider replacement if the unit is over 8 years old.
Accumulators - Accumulators are a storage vessel with baffles to assist in the refrigerant flow process of a heat pump. These item rarely need replacement but can rust and cause leaks. This is a simple refrigerant system repair.
Service Valves - Brass service valves can leak, and are sometimes damaged during installation by overheating. Leaking valves may be able to be sealed enough to stop the leaking with a firm tightening of the valve cap. Should this not solve the leak, a replacement should be scheduled.
Pressure Switches - Some pressure switches are brazed into place and replacement involves opening the refrigerant system and brazing into place new switches. As discussed in the Condensing Unit Repair section above, some switches are screwed in and some are brazed. In either case, the refrigerant system will need to be opened to perform the repair.
Copper Line Set Repairs - Occasionally copper line sets will get damaged, and need to be repaired. Kinks can sometimes be reformed using certain techniques. Any restrictions in the refrigerant line set need to be repaired immediately!